After the two capitals we first head back into nature: to the Estonian north coast and a Baltic Sea in which you can stroll for hundreds of metres. No sooner are a few quiet days over than we stumble into the next capital - and look for a gap with Mammothon that should not really exist…

The most famous cat in Riga

After weeks of remote pitches we end up on a city campsite, put up the umbrella and roll onto the ferry to the next country. There an old town awaits that is surprisingly empty - and Lou learns that a carrier bag has its good sides too…

Tallinn without the tourist crowds