Peloponnese 🇬🇷 - Messene and the Towers of Vatheia

Sven Walther

October 12, 2026

Messene

Our first destination for the weekend is the ancient city of Messene. First we stop in Kalamata to stock up on supplies before tackling mountain roads and some rather narrow villages. Driving the Mammothon is an adventure in itself.

When we finally arrive, we find an absolutely fantastic overnight spot: completely alone, right next to the ancient city walls. It doesn’t get much better than this.

View from above of the Mammothon on a clearing between bushes and olive trees, the ancient wall behind it — Our pitch by the city wall

The Mammothon stands on a gravel road next to a massive wall of stone blocks — The Mammothon next to the wall

In the evening we walk past the Arcadian Gate and enjoy a delicious dinner with a view of the ancient city. Good food, history and an incredible setting: the perfect start to the weekend.

The Arcadian Gate with massive stone blocks and a slanted lintel — The Arcadian Gate

A stone defensive tower on a rise in front of wide hill country — A tower of the city wall

On Saturday we go all in and spend hours exploring the ruins. What the Greeks built here almost 2,400 years ago is simply mind-blowing. We visited Ostia Antica near Rome last month and were already very impressed, but personally I think Messene is even better. What fascinates me most is how the city was built into the hillside: the theatre high above, the stadium further down, all integrated beautifully into the landscape.

The Mammothon drives through the narrow passage between two high stone walls — The Mammothon just fits through the gate

The ancient theatre with rows of seats in the grass, wooded mountains behind — The theatre of Messene

A row of tall columns of an ancient colonnade in front of mountains — Colonnade in the area of the Asklepieion

Stone steps and column remains on a green meadow under dense clouds — Steps and columns

The stone rows of seats of the ancient stadium with green grass in the middle — The stadium

A long colonnade next to a red running track — The colonnade at the stadium

A small ancient temple building with four columns in front of cypresses and mountains — The Heroon at the stadium

Lou stands on sandy ground in front of several ancient columns — Lou among the columns

It’s hard not to be amazed by what people were able to plan and build so long ago. My verdict: five out of five stars! If you love ancient history, put Messene on your list.

Vatheia

The next day we head south, almost to the very tip of mainland Greece. We drive down the “middle finger” of the Peloponnese, the Mani, to Vatheia, a largely abandoned village famous for its striking historic stone towers.

You might think we’d be getting used to narrow Greek roads by now, but today there are two more spots where the buildings leave just enough room to squeeze through. Just enough! Driving the Mammothon through these villages is becoming a sport of its own.

The tower village of Vatheia on a slope in front of bare mountains — Vatheia and the mountains of the Mani

In Vatheia and all around it there are beautiful stone tower houses. Some are still inhabited, others have been left to the elements. Set against the rugged landscape, they create an almost otherworldly scene.

A tall, decaying stone tower among wall remains under a blue sky — A tower house left to the elements

Blooming red bougainvillea on a stone wall above a paved path — Bougainvillea along the path

We park at the viewpoint above the village and explore on foot. The views over the towers and the surrounding countryside are fantastic. Over dinner at a restaurant in the village we notice a familiar pattern: tourists drive up to the viewpoint, take photos of the village… and then of the Mammothon, too! Turns out our truck has become an attraction in its own right.

Three cats on a stone terrace, two of them orange — The restaurant’s cats

We spend the night here, enjoying the peace and quiet. The next morning Saskia makes the most of the time before my lunch break and hikes up to the church of Panagia Faneromeni.

A small round stone chapel with a bell gable on a rocky outcrop above the sea — The chapel high above the coast

View from above of a coast with deep blue sea and a village between mountains — View from above over the coast of the Mani

Then it’s time to head north again. Vatheia will stay with us as one of those special places where the journey, narrow roads and all, is part of the adventure.